Wednesday 26 March 2008

Barcelona stuff (2)

Last weekend, as you may have noted from my last post, I was in Barcelona. This was my first trip into continental Europe, and I don’t think I could have chosen a better place to start. The weather wasn't perfect - it was cool and often overcast - but it didn't really matter...

Every since I was at university I have wanted to see Barcelona. The primary reason for this is Antoni Gaudi. His work fascinated me from the start… it gives the impression of being completely uncontrolled and amorphous and yet, it is not wild or childish. To control and balance architecture that is so organic is amazing and quite awe inspiring.

His masterwork is Temple de la Sagrada Familia. The temple looms up out of Eixample (pronounced ‘esharmplah’ and meaning ‘extension’) to the West of the Old City. Photos do not do it justice; they do not let you look into the remarkable detail of the facades, particularly the Nativity Façade to the East front. Covered in carvings or people, animals and plants you could spend hours exploring the figures. It is a lush, vibrant and overwhelming combination of art and architecture. Its contrast is the West front, the Passion Façade. It is stark and sharp edged, but no less beautiful.

…and then of course you walk inside. The forest of stone columns are quite literally tree trunks, with the branches reaching up to the ceiling where they spread into vaults glittering with gold. The naïve is still unfinished and the stark ends of the vaults contrast with the bright sun and blue of the sky. 2026 is the current estimate for completion and will be the 100th anniversary of the Architects death. A good excuse to go back I think.

Of course Barcelona is dotted with Gaudi’s work, particularly the district of Eixample. It was the major area of the City to expand during his lifetime. It was developed in the middle of the 19th century to cope with the growing city. The old city walls were demolished and a regular grid of street laid out to the west on the field between Barcelona and the village of Gracia. There are broad avenues lined with trees which contrast with the maze of narrow alleyways in the old city and the hillside of Gracia.

I did a lot of walking in Barcelona. Walking and the Metro seem to be the best ways to get around. Or course you see more walking as the metro in underground… so, mostly I walked; through the Old City, on La Rambla, along the beach.
Barcelona seems a very easy place to live. It has good shopping, eating and drinking, a beach, some great museums and friendly people. Shame I don’t speak Spanish (yet)...

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

Barcelona sounds just wonderful! Loved the photos and the Gum Trees!


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