1710
Virgin Trains services to Holyhead departs London Euston
2027Train arrives Bangor, North Wales. I stumble off the train to find myself the only person in within 100 miles wearing a suit.
2040
Check into the Garden Hotel Bangor. First impression not good. Entire ground floor is a Chinese restaurant. Faint odour of sweet and sour chicken in the air. Very friendly staff. Shown to my first floor room. Clean and neat. Decide to change clothes and go for a walk.
2050Leave hotel for an evening stroll around Bangor. The sun is still up. Head for the seaside. Long walk. First impression of Bangor... not good. This town holds the honour of the longest High Street in the UK. Quantity does not mean quality. Bangor is a University town and I have arrived on the last night of term. Parties of drunken teenagers everywhere.
2110
Find the seaside. Nothing to write home about ...and definitely not worth writing a song about! Which, in fact, Fiddler's Dram didn't. They actually went on a day-trip to Rhyl about 35 miles away. Unfortunately Day Trip to Rhyl wasn't as catchy - they needed a 2 syllable word apparently - so they changed the lyrics to Bangor. When the tide goes out in Bangor it goes out! Reminded me of home.
2145
Retire for the evening and watch TV until I fall asleep.
Saturday 29th May 2010
0730
Alarm goes off. Raining - it is north Wales after all.
0745
Go downstairs for breakfast.
0815
Decide waiting in the rain for a bus to Llandudno (pronounced something like: Clandidno) is not a wise move. Walk across the road to the train station.
0822
Board train to Llandudno
0834
Change trains in Llandudno Junction for train to Llandudno
0850Arrive Llandudno. I am a little early. Nothing is open. Had initially intended to take the bus which is a more scenic option and takes about an hour. Would have arrived at a more reasonable time. Immediately like Llandudno despite the drizzle. Walk along the beach-side promenade and admire the Victorian elegance of the hotels lining the street. The town looks completely untouched. If you took away the cars it could still be 1875. The town is also beautifully maintained and prosperous looking. I walk back to the high street and the shops are opening. Buy a pair of shoes to replace my 'travel trainers' which are falling apart. Follow the town's heritage trail for half an hour. Find myself at the Great Orme Tramway.
1000
Board tram for trip to the summit of the Great Orme.
1020Arrive at summit of the Great Orme. Cold, drizzly, windy, grey. Superb view. On a sunny day it must be a lovely place for a walk. Take required photographs and hurry back to the tram.
1040
Descend the Great Orme.
1100
Wander along Llandudno pier. Play the 2 penny games in the amusement parlour until I lose 50p. Takes 10 minutes. All visits to a pier must be accompanied by the playing of the 2 penny games in an amusement parlour. It is part of the charm of Victorian piers. There is also a slightly addictive quality to them. It's all about putting in 50p and getting 10p back, and being happy with your winnings, and then putting that 10p back in as well, and walking away with a smile.
1145
Visit the Mostyn Gallery. A pretty decent modern art gallery. Didn't like or understand the art... pretty much like most modern art - but the building is a gem. Have lunch in the cafe on the 1st floor with a nice view to the beach. Browse the shop on the ground floor. Buy a small glazed ceramic jug.
1310
Walk to Llandudno Station to buy a ticket to Blaenau Ffestiniog (I have no idea how to pronounce that) where I intend to join the Welsh Highland Railway and travel on to Porthmadog. Very helpful (and rather talkative) ticket man sells me a ticket for the whole journey including the heritage railway which is most convenient. Back away from ticket man who seems to have no intention of discontinuing his conversation with me.
1320
Board train for Blaenau Ffestiniog. 27 miles of stunning scenery slips past the windows as we rise high up the Conwy Valley. Just before the final destination we enter a tunnel. It's 2 and a half miles long and with the train pulling uphill at a fast jog it takes a long time to pass through. Just like being on the London underground.
1433
Train pulls into Blaenau Ffestiniog. Have 30 minutes to kill. Consider walking up the deserted main street. Think better of it and wander into the Queen's Hotel for a pint. The pub is packed. Clearly the only place in town to go on a rainy Saturday afternoon. The slate quarries loom dark and ominously all around the town and I stare a their almost shear walls of tumbled slate as I drink my beer at a window overlooking that station.
1445
I near the bottom of my pint. I see a puff of smoke and my next connection steams into the station. On the tiny 2 foot gauge line a handsome train hauled by a gleaming burgundy locomotive pulls up. I throw down the rest of my pint and wander down for a closer look.
1455
As I walk down the side of the train I decide to be lavish and spring for a 1st class upgrade. £5 and 5 minutes later I am settling into my plush armchair in the observation car right behind the locomotive. Surrounded by glass and with a drinks menu in front of me I am enjoying the trip already.
1515
Train departs for Porthmadog. The waiter arrives. I order a Snowdon Ale and salted peanuts. The train rattles and shakes and wanders down the line. I watch the scenery slip by again. Emerald green fields, with grey stone walls and white fluffy sheep slide down to crystal lakes on one side and buff hills rise on the other pock-marked with old mines and quarries. The beer is tasty and suitably local.
1630
Arrive Porthmadog. Not a bad looking town. Not good looking enough to linger though. Walk to bus stop.
1645
Take No.1 bus to Bangor.
2000
Settle in to watch the final of Eurovision song contest. UK come last (or near enough to) again.
Sunday 30th May 2010
0730
Alarm goes off. Not raining. Sunshine visible from bathroom window.
0800
Breakfast
0830
Walk to bus stop near hotel.
0842
Bus to Llanberis (pronounced: Clanberis) does not stop. Annoyed. Walk to centre of Bangor to assess options at central bus station.
0905
Get on bus to Caernarfon. Take chance that I can connect there with a bus to Llanberis.
0925
Arrive Caernarfon.
0935
Chance pays off. Board bus to Llanberis.
1000
Arrive Llanberis. Walk to other side of village to book ticket on Snowdon Mountain Railway
1015
All tickets on Snowdon Mountain Railway sold out. Annoyed at self for not pre-booking.
1020
Walk to Welsh National Slate Museum while considering options for reaching the summit of Mt Snowdon.
1030
Slate Museum. Free entry. Day looking up! The Slate Museum is a well presented 'frozen in time' look at slate production. The workshops, quarrymen's houses and equipment make for an interesting half an hour. There are many demonstrations and tours indicated on various boards around the museum but they all seem to be scheduled for the afternoon. I can't wait around. I have considered my options and decided to walk to the summit.
1100
Buy small slate coaster with imprint of welsh dragon, as I leave the museum, to add to me ever growing collection of small, tacky souvenirs.
1110
Walk to Spar Supermarket and buy 2 bottles of Gatorade and 5 pack of Snickers.
1115
1455As I walk down the side of the train I decide to be lavish and spring for a 1st class upgrade. £5 and 5 minutes later I am settling into my plush armchair in the observation car right behind the locomotive. Surrounded by glass and with a drinks menu in front of me I am enjoying the trip already.
1515
Train departs for Porthmadog. The waiter arrives. I order a Snowdon Ale and salted peanuts. The train rattles and shakes and wanders down the line. I watch the scenery slip by again. Emerald green fields, with grey stone walls and white fluffy sheep slide down to crystal lakes on one side and buff hills rise on the other pock-marked with old mines and quarries. The beer is tasty and suitably local.
1630
Arrive Porthmadog. Not a bad looking town. Not good looking enough to linger though. Walk to bus stop.
1645
Take No.1 bus to Bangor.
2000
Settle in to watch the final of Eurovision song contest. UK come last (or near enough to) again.
Sunday 30th May 2010
0730
Alarm goes off. Not raining. Sunshine visible from bathroom window.
0800
Breakfast
0830
Walk to bus stop near hotel.
0842
Bus to Llanberis (pronounced: Clanberis) does not stop. Annoyed. Walk to centre of Bangor to assess options at central bus station.
0905
Get on bus to Caernarfon. Take chance that I can connect there with a bus to Llanberis.
0925
Arrive Caernarfon.
0935
Chance pays off. Board bus to Llanberis.
1000
Arrive Llanberis. Walk to other side of village to book ticket on Snowdon Mountain Railway
1015
All tickets on Snowdon Mountain Railway sold out. Annoyed at self for not pre-booking.
1020
Walk to Welsh National Slate Museum while considering options for reaching the summit of Mt Snowdon.
1030Slate Museum. Free entry. Day looking up! The Slate Museum is a well presented 'frozen in time' look at slate production. The workshops, quarrymen's houses and equipment make for an interesting half an hour. There are many demonstrations and tours indicated on various boards around the museum but they all seem to be scheduled for the afternoon. I can't wait around. I have considered my options and decided to walk to the summit.
1100
Buy small slate coaster with imprint of welsh dragon, as I leave the museum, to add to me ever growing collection of small, tacky souvenirs.
1110
Walk to Spar Supermarket and buy 2 bottles of Gatorade and 5 pack of Snickers.
1115
Depart Llanberis. Walk to Summit of Mt Snowdon.
1330
Arrive at summit. The walk up was 2 and a quarter hours of incredible scenery, pretty much along the route of the Snowdon Mountain Railway. I was one of hundreds (actually more like thousands) who decided that the fine weather was a good opportunity to make the climb. I was also quite surprise by the number of people who took their dogs. I suppose they could use them to pull them up the steep bits ...and steep bits there were! The walk starts with a nice quarter mile of near vertical hill. It then evens out to a nice steady upward slog. I stopped several times to admire the panoramic views (and catch my breath) and was much envied by the other walkers for my snickers bars. Just when you think the summit is in sight and its all over with, the steepest section arrives. After 5 miles of walking up you are faced with a final mile of lung busting, leg aching, slope. At the top, as the little Snowdon mountain train chugged contentedly past full of people without sore legs, I was just about
blown off the mountain. The wind was brisk and cold. I pulled on my windbreaker jacket and looked up at the summit. 20 yards further up the tiny rocky summit of Snowdon was crammed with people and looked remarkably like a human pin-cushion. Decide against joining the queue for the summit. Where I am is high enough.
1335
Enter mountain top pavilion. Crammed with people waiting for the train down. Queues for toilets, snack bar and vending machines all immense.
1337
Leave mountain top pavilion. Sit on steps and eat another Snickers. Draw more envious glances. Wonder why people come up here without food. Realise they planned on buying from the snack bar and don't have the energy to face to queue.
1345
Had enough of the crowds. Start walk down path to Rhyd Ddu (pronounced something like Rith The,
I believe) Path follows razor back ridge for next mile and a half. Views marvellous. Track very rough in places. Rather disconcerting to look down at times. Can see Rhyd Ddu at the bottom of the mountain. Doesn't look that far (wrong).
1400(ish)
Pain starts in back of right knee. I am clearly out of practice - or not as young as I once was - or both. Try to ignore sore muscle and continue down. Views still marvellous.
1430(ish)
Realise I spent so little time at the top I can make an earlier train connection in Rhyd Ddu. Step it out a little. Scenery just gets better and better.
1530
Collapse onto platform at Rhyd Ddu Station 10
minutes ahead of my train. Buy ticket. Settle for standard class as I am sure I stink pretty bad and don't want to offend the posh people in 1st.
1540
Train arrives on time. Climb aboard my second Welsh Highland Railway train in 2 days and settle in for trip down to Caernarfon.
1550
Madog Ale and salted peanuts before me. Lovely scenery outside. Sitting down. Most content.
1650
Arrive Caernarfon in the shadow of its immense 13th century castle. Legs very stiff and sore after sitting for more than an hour. Take slow, staggering walk around the old walled town.
1710
Decide enough walking has been done today. Order pint at the Anglesey Pub and sit outside admiring the view over the Menai Straight to the Isle of Anglesey.
1750
Board bus for Bangor
1900
Dinner at Chinese restaurant at the Hotel. Surprisingly good.
Monday 31st May 2010
0900
Check out of hotel and walk to Bangor Pier. Clearly the nicest part of town (albeit a very small part of town). The pier is charming and and has lovely views up the Menai Straight to the suspension bridge. Sun is shining. Warm day.
1005
Board bus for Conwy
1330Arrive at summit. The walk up was 2 and a quarter hours of incredible scenery, pretty much along the route of the Snowdon Mountain Railway. I was one of hundreds (actually more like thousands) who decided that the fine weather was a good opportunity to make the climb. I was also quite surprise by the number of people who took their dogs. I suppose they could use them to pull them up the steep bits ...and steep bits there were! The walk starts with a nice quarter mile of near vertical hill. It then evens out to a nice steady upward slog. I stopped several times to admire the panoramic views (and catch my breath) and was much envied by the other walkers for my snickers bars. Just when you think the summit is in sight and its all over with, the steepest section arrives. After 5 miles of walking up you are faced with a final mile of lung busting, leg aching, slope. At the top, as the little Snowdon mountain train chugged contentedly past full of people without sore legs, I was just about
blown off the mountain. The wind was brisk and cold. I pulled on my windbreaker jacket and looked up at the summit. 20 yards further up the tiny rocky summit of Snowdon was crammed with people and looked remarkably like a human pin-cushion. Decide against joining the queue for the summit. Where I am is high enough.1335
Enter mountain top pavilion. Crammed with people waiting for the train down. Queues for toilets, snack bar and vending machines all immense.
1337Leave mountain top pavilion. Sit on steps and eat another Snickers. Draw more envious glances. Wonder why people come up here without food. Realise they planned on buying from the snack bar and don't have the energy to face to queue.
1345
Had enough of the crowds. Start walk down path to Rhyd Ddu (pronounced something like Rith The,
I believe) Path follows razor back ridge for next mile and a half. Views marvellous. Track very rough in places. Rather disconcerting to look down at times. Can see Rhyd Ddu at the bottom of the mountain. Doesn't look that far (wrong).1400(ish)
Pain starts in back of right knee. I am clearly out of practice - or not as young as I once was - or both. Try to ignore sore muscle and continue down. Views still marvellous.
1430(ish)
Realise I spent so little time at the top I can make an earlier train connection in Rhyd Ddu. Step it out a little. Scenery just gets better and better.
1530
Collapse onto platform at Rhyd Ddu Station 10
minutes ahead of my train. Buy ticket. Settle for standard class as I am sure I stink pretty bad and don't want to offend the posh people in 1st.1540
Train arrives on time. Climb aboard my second Welsh Highland Railway train in 2 days and settle in for trip down to Caernarfon.
1550
Madog Ale and salted peanuts before me. Lovely scenery outside. Sitting down. Most content.
1650Arrive Caernarfon in the shadow of its immense 13th century castle. Legs very stiff and sore after sitting for more than an hour. Take slow, staggering walk around the old walled town.
1710
Decide enough walking has been done today. Order pint at the Anglesey Pub and sit outside admiring the view over the Menai Straight to the Isle of Anglesey.
1750
Board bus for Bangor
1900
Dinner at Chinese restaurant at the Hotel. Surprisingly good.
Monday 31st May 20100900
Check out of hotel and walk to Bangor Pier. Clearly the nicest part of town (albeit a very small part of town). The pier is charming and and has lovely views up the Menai Straight to the suspension bridge. Sun is shining. Warm day.
1005
Board bus for Conwy
1050Arrive Conwy. Walk into the walled town. Feels genuinely ancient. Wander around the castle. Superb views of the town and Conwy Bay from the towers. Castle is remarkable well preserved considering it was built in the 13th century. Edward II knew how to build castles.
1120
Visit Plas Mawr a 16th century house in the centre of town. Fine plasterwork. More plasterwork breasts on display than I would have thought appropriate in the 1500s. Clearly the more norks on display the richer you were.
1222
Bus back to Bangor
1422
Virgin Trains services to Euston departs. Get the last unreserved first class seat and buy £15 weekend upgrade. Attendant brings me a cup of tea. Settle in with book.
1744
Arrive London Euston
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